BELIEVE ME NOT! - - A SKEPTICs GUIDE
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The precise relationship between angular frequency
and wavenumber k for deep-water waves is
|
(14.26) |
where g has its usual meaning.
Such a functional relationship
between frequency and wavenumber is known as the
DISPERSION RELATION for waves in the medium in question,
for reasons that will be clear shortly.
If we have a simple traveling plane wave
,
with no beginning and no end, the rate of propagation of a
point of constant phase (known as the PHASE VELOCITY
)
is still given by Eq. (6):
|
(14.27) |
However, by combining Eq. (27) with Eq. (26)
we find that the phase velocity is higher
for smaller k (longer ):
|
(14.28) |
Moreover, such a wave carries no information.
It has been passing by forever and will continue to do so forever;
it is the same amplitude everywhere; and so on.
Obviously our PLANE WAVE is a bit of an oversimplification.
If we want to send a signal with a wave, we have to
turn it on and off in some pattern; we have to make wave pulses
(or, anticipating the terminology of QUANTUM MECHANICS,
`` WAVE PACKETS'').
And when we do that with water waves, we notice something odd:
the wave packets propagate slower than the ``wavelets'' in them!
Figure:
A WAVE PACKET moving at
with ``wavelets'' moving through it at
.
|
Such a packet is a superposition of waves with different wavelengths;
the k-dependence of
causes a phenomenon known as
DISPERSION, in which waves of different wavelength,
initially moving together in phase, will drift apart as the
packet propagates, making it ``broader'' in both space and time.
(Obviously such a DISPERSIVE MEDIUM is undesirable for
the transmission of information!) But how do we determine the
effective speed of transmission of said information - i.e.
the propagation velocity of the packet itself,
called the GROUP VELOCITY ?
Allow me to defer an explanation of the following result
until the next chapter. The general definition of
the group velocity (the speed of transmission of information
and/or energy in a wave packet) is
|
(14.29) |
For the particular case of deep-water waves,
Eq. (29) combined with Eq. (26) give
|
(14.30) |
That is, the packet propagates at half the speed
of the ``wavelets'' within it. This behaviour can actually be
observed in the wake of a large vessel on the ocean,
seen from high above (e.g. from an airliner).
Such exotic-seeming wave phenomena are ubiquitous in all
dispersive media, which are anything but rare.
However, in the following chapters we will restrict ourselves
to waves propagating through simple non-dispersive media,
for which the DISPERSION RELATION is just
with c constant, for which
.
Next: Sound Waves
Up: Water Waves
Previous: Water Waves
Jess H. Brewer
1998-11-06